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JUN 02 Fetsund/Norway -
Åmål/Sweden
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Using car and trailer for 170 km delivered (by Ken t.y. W6141) at
Åmål, a sleepy Swedish smalltown by lake Vänern (known for the film
"Fucking Åmål") with a nice smallboat-harbour having a fine
slipway, made launching easy in the setting sun of W10390 RAMP
(meaning Rascal).
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Departure Fetsund
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Arrival Åmål
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Leaving Åmål harbour
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Vänern evening mood
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Very fluky winds but the outboard at last brought us to Trollholmen
S of Åmål a convenient-looking small isle with a bay opposite the great
open lake and on the expected leeside. Bow to shore anchor aft and all
well, but actually the nightly movement of the huge open sea-area, E and
SE, were reflected by the mainland shore and caused an
unexpected, bothersome swell.
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The erection of the new anti-condense inner-tent, to be tested the
very first time, took some extra while, but gave us a comfortable dry
night. Distance 2.3 nm
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Vänern evening
mood 2
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Trollholmen
near Åmål
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Mystery rays in
Grönviksudde harbour
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First bridge
passing
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JUN
03
Åmål/Sweden - Grönviksudde/near Vänersborg
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At 05:45 weather
report from Denmark, on medium wave, but a Swedish FM found more
convenient and giving a good forecast: Easterly 4-8m/sec. It also surprisingly
mentioned that the enormous lake was 73 cm above the normal water level.
Such a colossal amount of extra fresh water could easily be wanted
elsewhere!
After 4 hours we passed Kjöpmannehamn,
where the original intention was to have entered Lake Vänern coming out
from the Dalsland's channel, but the locks here were not worked until later
in June, and we had no time to wait for that.
During the afternoon the wind and waves
build up to a wee-bit scary condition, and Ken wanted to shelter at Röhrvik
while changing to W-trysail on the mast and W-jib up front. That made
life much more relaxed and without the earlier on-your-toes-nervousness!
Remark: Coming into lee and slow speed
it's worth remembering to close the bailers.
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The destination harbour, Grönviksudde, was not to be spotted,
and great doubt came upon us with regard to our navigation, and rightly so
we were too far E, and the terrain of our landfall-area was rather
obscured, nearly invisible due the shade made by the setting sun that
beamed into our faces. Coming closer a short piece of the wooded shore
started to throw white water into the air! Hopefully there was a hole in
that wall somewhere, and 'Yes' not a wide one, but enoug to allow us
enter and tie-up at 18:15. A nice place but deserted and apparently no
longer used as intended. What a shame! The skyline of Vänersborg visible!
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We recorded that the whole day we saw extremely few cabins
along the shorelines. The explanation: It's quite restrictive to build
there for environmental reasons. Dist. 42.3 nm
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Toward the
first lock
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The first lock
done
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Railway bridge
over canal
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Ken meeting
fellow
Citizens in the
lock
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JUN
04
Vänersborg/Grönviksudde - Fästningsholmen by Kungälv
After a quiet night we are off under slow
rev. engine at 08:00 sharp in a totally calm morning and such
wonderful, lovely fresh air and again brilliant sunshine. Passing
Vänersborg we entered the canal area. Use of sails is not allowed through
the locks and canals of Trollhättan and down Göta River to Gothenburg. Of variable
width this waterway it's more like sailing through a parkland than on an
industrial canal. Quite broad at places with laky weedy shores and
water-fowl of different kind. RAMP shoot the bridges by lowering the mast,
and has little respect for ‘stand by’ red blinking lights!
Nobody seem to mind or try to halt our
progress that brings us to the first of the lock-chambers through
fascinating views of landscapes and past used canal-equipment like
swing-bridges and mooring ramps. Bicycle paths along the shore busy with
happy people and schoolchildren having time for smiles and a wave! Upon
approaching the lock the operator signals enter and advises us to hold on
to the iron-ladder and just climb/'scale' down, hand under hand, as the
water rapidly, very so, sinks under us. For the start a water jet from the
wall tried to fill our vessel, but this threat was luckily of short
duration. Fairly soon we also learned not to leave the chambers too
quickly, they are really huge, and the gates are forced open to help level
the waters quickly, and that creates an outmoving current! Very amusing,
and easier to handle than the old Telemark-canal, Ken tells me.
He also mentions the 3-some, one
cousin-lady and two brothers, who W-sailed from Copenhagen the opposite
way, "uphill" and into the Dalsland channel, and in
Sweden from E of Halden(Norway) took a short lorry-transport into
Norway and the nearby branch of the Oslofjord, and then on to Oslo.
About 350nm total, before the Line-ferry back to Copenhagen. A
wonderful *Super 8* mm-film of the trip, they made, adding some lovely
music from the areas passed.
In one lock-chamber we met a keelboat from
Ken's original hometown Århus, which he left just after WW2 to become a
sailing ship seaman. He is not satisfied that they carry the Swedish
visitor's flag under P/LB in stead of the SB spreader, and definitely less
so when the husband of the married couple crew blames his wife for the
blunder! Ken threatens to bring their picture on the front page of
their hometown's main newspaper being a major one in DEN, well-known for
bringing some disturbing drawings of a prophet!
One hour helming-shifts, refilling the
engine's fuel-tank, and an occasional, illegal unfurling of the Genoa, and
we reach the last lock by Lilla Edet, where we before passing got fuel and
a proper crew-refill at the Road Inn recommended by the lock operator
(share-holder?). Also Ken's cell phone got its refill.
So we pass the last lock and sail on
through the beautiful landscape of great variation, cultural such with
cattle, horses and sheep, Also wooded wild areas with hillocks and
rocky parts, pinkish granite, and the weather so lovely tempered warm and
delicate – what luck we have! En route we call Mischa, a Swedish
friend, in Gothenburg hoping for a meet tomorrow.
Down at now sea level by Kungälv and
past the last mast-lowering bridge the mighty fortress island of Bohus
Fästning (this castle was often under siege but never taken!) is
approached. The local rowing club had a race on, and three youngsters in a
watch/guard boat had to be told: "Speak proper Swedish in stead
of 'jabbering'!" Then all well and cleared, and RAMP
landed on a tiny sandy beach of the islet's camping site. Fresh water and a
shower came in handy. Distance (helped by the outflow of water) 39.7 nm.
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Aerial cableway
over canal
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Leaving the last lock
Lilla Edet
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We are drifting
on the river
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Part of
saltwater barrier with small boat passage
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JUN
05
Kungälv/Fästningsholmen - Marstrand/Halsholmen.
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Again such marvellous weather.
Pack and push off, out of the shades and into the sunshine and river
stream to be carried along while preparing breakfast. No wind, no engine
noise just now and then a paddle-stroke to stay clear of obstructions.
Peaceful and pleasant breakfast before engine power comes to action. Mischa
is contacted and agrees to meet us at Kornhall. Before then we
must pass a huge construction, a stop-saltwater-barrier. It's an old
invention protecting the freshwater-supply from the river, supplying
Gothenburg, Sweden's next largest city, to be salt-polluted, when a
special high water flooding of saltwater could become a threat.
At Kornhall is a cable-ferry and
a small boat harbour with a strong cross-current between the
jetties. Very nice to meet Micha and shopping by using his car to
get fuel and re-supply stores. The open Skagerrack Sea is waiting and
an smooth lightwind gives RAMP a smooth run, except for one
touch-and-go grounding stop. Then the wind swings 180 dg. and freshens
suddenly "cat out of the hat" to a breezy force 4+, about 8+
m/sec. The working day has started, oilskins donned and reef
down while hove to, then tack upon tack, and during one such we
loose a cushion, a *behind softener*, so "man overboard maneuvre,
rescue-action" satisfactorily and very efficiently performed by
skipper according the old ’salt’/mate.
Somewhat later our only
none-seamanship-occurrence is experienced as a landlubber-driver comes out
of the Brunskär harbour at full planing speed already at the exit, and
cuts right in front of us. His luck that our 'torpedoes' were in
*peace mode*! Then in the further increasing wind a loud crack
followed by a shape-change of the mainsail as a reefing line
pulls free, but it's pulled tight, tied up and we continue our progress
seeing the high rocky lands of Marstrand, the destination up ahead.
Very shifty and gusty winds, difficult to come about, and "bang,
bang" rocky bottom hits the CB as the tiller-movement is somewhat
restricted in a wind shift by the tied down 'crow-foot' across-ship,
serving as a mainsheet-bridle due the engine being at the transom.
Modified later on, but we have had enough by now and seek
shelter in a most attractive, small peaceful bay-creek - entirely for
us only, all alone as in most places!
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At the map we notice just opposite a small islet by the name:
"Churchyard Islet"! Not a bad place to have arrived to
accept: sooner or later that's your destination port!
In Sweden and Norway you have free access to
all land, which is not cultivated ‘inland’. So all is well and most
friendly when the surprised owner(fam.-ownership since year 1600) came
by kayak, and showed real great interest in RAMP and us, while we prepared
a well earned dinner and made ship-shape ready for the night. Distance 22.7
nm straight on, over the ground, but in zig-zag past lunch so add about 40%
distance - mostly felt in the buttocks - for about 5 hours!
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River landscape
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On the way to
Kornhall
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Isle owners
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Mischa
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JUN
06
Marstrand/Halsholmen - Gullholmen/Stora Risholmen
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Shortly after breakfast
bringing along our sea-maps and naturally his cell-phone, Ken goes
involuntarily but invariable head first into the sea, comes up
spluttering from his first dive this season and has raised the sea-temp
in the progress through angry comments. Maps are put up to dry in the
light sunny morning wind and the cell-phone condemned, but SIM-card
saved. Ken's right palm needs attending due sharp Sea
Urchins' assisted rip stop! In Swedish the Sea
Urchins are called "Sea-Tulips"! Nasty 'flowers' in
our book!
The "Patron" (owner of this
isle) comes by on his morning kayak-trip and invites us for coffee to
their farmhouse. It takes some exploring to find it, but we are rewarded
given a great reception by his charming wife, who serves some really
delicate, homemade scrounges and very good coffee on the terrace having a
wonderful view of nature, land- and waterscape - in such lovely weather.
In the barn with a top modern workshop -
the sheep taking care of themselves in the open, no wolves here - the
pride of the place a beautiful Swedish Class-dinghy "E-Canot",
a little longer than the Wayfarer and most certainly faster in flat
water, but we like to think not quite fully as sea-kind out in the
Skagerrack Sea. It has nice, good, under deck stowage-drawers, but a
rather limited cockpit-space, and the owner marvel to
hear about W1348 with 4 children, 7 grown ups and 1 dog on a bathing
trip out to a skerry-islet at Oslo.
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Onward through the Albrektsound's Canal to Marstrand under
engine. Many flags and a lot of traffic, it is Sweden's
National-Constitu-tional Day. Wonderful though to get out into the open
to hoist sails despite all the things to look at, among them the great
Castle of Marstrand lured to surrender by historical
Danish-Norwegian-Sea Hero called Tordenskjold (Thundershield) who made a
lot of noise (literally with his ships' canons!) and disturbance on this
coast of Scandinavia.
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A smooth delicate on the run sail to Gullholmen getting
into a race with a 33 ft keelboat under spinnaker and with young joyful
people of both sexes on board. They smiled happily at us, but took a
closer look when we beat them to the finish line by the harbour.
We prized ourselves to a nice
winner-dinner at the quay's fish-restaurant, and prized is definitely the
right word as the bill stated a rather shocking forty, four-zero dinners,
instead of just two! With smiles all around 38 hereof were cancelled.
Gullholmen (Golden Islet) got the name from the great wealth of the
earlier days' abundant Herring Fisheries. Most appreciated was a visit
here by The 2003 W.- Int.Rally-participants from nearby Malö.
We leave port for our night stop in a shallow-water bay placing planks
across-ship under the hull, to guard the CB-slot from picking up
gravel. Ken's right arm - unpleasantly warm and reddish - has started to
pain from the hand up - blasted "Tulips"! Must see Doc.
tomorrow at Lysekil. Dist. 24.3 nm
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Halsholms small
bay
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Drying charts
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Preparations
for the night
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Funny sea salt
crystals at Vajern
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JUN
07
Gullholmen - Smögen/Vajern
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Luckily the water is back in before departure into sailing
upon a stainless steel plate surface; fresh morning, marvellous visibility and
sunshine. Peaceful, the 'motors' - except for our own outboard - are not up
yet. After two hours we make harbour at Lysekil, where Ken heads off for
medical help and a replacement cell phone. He is back after a long while
with a bandaged hand, and tells about more waiting since the phone got to
be charged.
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Useful leisure-time for a shower and shopping in a cosy
coastal town with a very nice sea view of boat traffic from a fine harbour.
Finally at 15:30 off under reefed main and jib into fresh conditions;
oilskins and Wellingtons in place for expected spray-showering work to
windward, tack-upon-tack, right into it! The silver glare over
'white bone' breakers from the sinking sun, salt-sprayed glasses,
heads-hooded, looking away from the oncoming spray-showers, difficult
map-reading, are all part of the reason why we error-navigate twice. But so
what, N.America is quite far off !
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Much beauty seen on the way, most of it land- and seascapes, but
one wrong (possible right?) turn brought us close to the barren rocky
shore, where a single, none-singing blond-haired "Siren",
straight out of Homer, had settled, and Ken, a polite forehand bend over
with a ‘gracious’ arm swing, presents the helming skipper as "Mr.
Ulysses". This commotion brought out from behind the rocks the father
of the "Siren"(a quite young and beautiful girl, looking a bit
bewildered) and he acknowledged her as such. Big smiles and laughter all
around as we tacked away, having enjoyed lee of the shore and human
beings for a short while.
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Main Lane chosen through Smögen-Kungshamn, but downing sails,
kicking in the engine, we veer W-ward into a narrow canal closely lined by
fishermen's hamlets. Now all made into too modern, highly expensive summer
cabins with a small jetty. Past here we find our nature-lagoon, unspoiled
by culture, with low-water and a lovely sunset for dinner on the still sun
warm rocks. Distance, excl. tack upon tack increments, 25.9 nm
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Evening at
Vajern
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Delicious
breakfast
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Stone house by
Soten canal
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Big waves
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JUN 08
Smögen/Vajern – Lindön
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In the morning some repair work was demanded for my
reefing-system, reinforcement and re-whipping to ensure a higher degree of
possible stress-load. Then a very pleasant, relaxed trip through the
Soten-canal, where sneaky W1348"Maitken"back in
1967 came through the very first time, with no engine, en route from
CPH to Oslo(winning Frank Dye’s Viking Trophy). We abide the law and use
the engine through this short-cut - protected from powerful Skagerrack - very
enjoyable and although no need for us the swing-bridge opens - for tall
mast opposite traffic.
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Gale force being forecasted we head out into our first real
open Salt Sea sailing. The goal is to reach as far northbound as can be
achieved! Progress is very good under a SW-breeze and full sails. Having
luckily chosen some protected cuts through the bare rocked archipelago,
after the open sea-passage, the ‘load’ suddenly comes down on us calling
for an immediate hove-to-reaction as the sea starts boiling and are
presenting some sharp(or 'shark'!) white-teeth breaker 'grins'!
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Jib up front and the Genoa as W-trysail on the mast stabilize
the situation. A back-smoothing fender, for Ken’s cross back, went
over-board and despite many trips, back-and-forth, searching the area, it
was lost - not found in the unruly sea. Luckily it was just a
fender!
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In order to reduce the 'wrath' of the Skagerrack Sea, and the
pronounced build up of waves from there, a course was taken S of Otterön
(Otter Isle) and E of Pinnön (Stick Isle). After a look N towards the town
of Fjällbacka and passing Fiskholmen (Fish Islet) there is a serious
challenge of open sea with big build up of incoming breaking beam-seas.
Furthermore they made a disturbing back-wash/lash after hitting our lee
shores of rocky coastal granite-walls! It all made it an easy choice for me
to let the old salt handle the helm. On W-trysails only the heavy seas were
constantly there threatening to poor some cubic meters of top-water right
over us as RAMP fought and climbed up the steep 'hillsides'. The
concerned-concentrated looks of the helmsman indicated exactly that this
could well be expected, but actually only a few buckets of splash-water
against the windward topsides came aboard. Our much beloved WAYFARER really
is a most capable sea-vessel for rough conditions.
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A Norwegian 38 ft keelboat under a small foresail and engine
power overtakes us, and out at sea, heading in, there is a sailboat
under reefed down sails. It is really whipped/tossed about! For us its such
a great relief when able to veer off to broad-beam-reaching, heading
towards Havstenssund. So much easier to veer and 'scoot' downhill –
reliable rudder mandatory(!) - and leave the white 'grins' to try their
foam-reaches for the Norwegian ensign at our rudder head.
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After selecting a lovely, once more low-water, bay, only
open towards SE, Ken needed a well-deserved stretching of his back on the
smooth sun warm rocks, and snores away, while RAMP needed for me to make a
'spider web' tie down in addition to the anchor with the "dauman"
('dead-man') lead-weight holding tight the anchor line. All in all five
lines to the spider-web, because it was blowing: 'Hats and Hay!' and nearly
from all directions despite the protecting hillocks and trees surrounding
our small bay. During the somewhat lively night the wind veered from SW-W to
North coming more directly at us and making RAMP pull at the lines like a
nervous 'Mustang'. Still we slept and everything stayed put, and being the
tentmaker this naturally gives me a good sense of achievement, because it
was really blowing very hard. Distance, with very rough sailing and
demanding sail changes and -chances, in all 30.2 nm
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Heavy breakers
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Well deserved
rest
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Plenty of gusts
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We are
overtaken
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JUN
09
Lindön/Resön - Hvaler/Norway
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After a night of
noisy wind-wailing and a proper nourishing breakfast its time to head out under
some scepticism with regard to what is in store outside? The weather
forecast isn’t the best and the open Kosterfjord is notorious of being able
to serve some rough conditions of the well known mix of current, wind and
waves! Yesterday has not been forgotten!
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Ken’s new cell-phone get strong signals, BUT the net-operator
had somehow managed to block the use, and later stupidly tried the totally
unacceptable excuse that cause being the switch-over NOR – SWE. Must be caused(as
clearly informed!) by ignorance!
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At the wonderful ‘out of this world’s WORLD’ along the rim
around Skagerrack you have now the telecom masts available inland, if
wanted! Earlier only homing pigeons for one way communication. Aboard RAMP
we didn’t have much such telecom need, but now we couldn’t be reached
and since our departure my wife, Guri, knew nothing of our whereabouts! So
first then a short way to a short-stop at Hamnsundet’s guest-harbour for
telephone and shopping, and then out into the open under Jib + W-trysail.
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This quickly became full sails, Main and Genoa, since the wind had
abated allowing a splendid progress as we hurried northbound over the Kosterfjord
at nearly full hull-speed, and increasingly faster and faster as the wind
gradually increased to give us occasional swift surfing rides from the
enlarged wave-heights. Gradually plenty but stable surf-planing-tours
as we left sibling(brother-sister)-land of Bohus Län (County) Sweden
behind, checked the markers along our course, while the steering was made
easy by the smoke-column of a big forest-fire in Norway, where the proud
homecoming RAMP crossed the border at near top (controllable
such!) speed. Coming into the fjord of the Hvaler Isles we were still able
to have full sails all standing, and just *foam-sizzle* along!
Out in the open it would definitely have been prudent to reduce speed due
the wave-build-up.
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Well not much later the by now very rough condition brought us into
shelter, or partly so, found by Tjeldholmen (‘Oyster Catcher’ islet) so
pleasingly good as we entered with relief and great satisfaction of once
again having avoided *stumbling*, being pooped or *cart-wheeled*, and we
were back in the homeland after the day’s distance of speedy 23.8 nm.
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Been dry a long
time turf
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Last harbour
with gusts
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Visitors
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Coffee at least
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JUN
10
Hvaler/Tjeldholmen - Frederikstad/Isegran
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This night through
the feeling of being right below a rail-bridge of nearly continuously
passing high speed freight trains could not be denied. The gusts were so
shaking and powerful to become a severe test for the boat-tent that this
really could be expected to flee by flying away. Thankfully it fought the
battle bravely, stayed put and whole!
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At breakfast and our ordinary *Viking-Ship Members’ Council*
we also chewed on the forecast of gales, occasionally severe such, from
W – NW, expected for the next 4-5 days. We knew this is not how you W-sail
up Oslofjord and decided to terminate at old town Frederikstad and make a
trailer pick-up from there. So we made preparations to leave, but really
had to move about with great care since the gusts were so sudden and strong
that there was a fair chance of being swept, blown into the water!
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The jib was hoisted on the mast as W-trysail and gave us, when
free of the bay, a now and then surf + planing, which is pretty much
amazing and quite major for such a small sail-area on a W. loaded quite
heavily for a cruise of 10 days with engine, fuel, oars, paddles, tent
and all other gear, including a fairly solid crew of two!
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Luckily the wind was so far still from SW and pushing us up
against the outflow from Norway’s largest river, Glomma, just then bringing
a lot of melting water from the ice + snow of the high mountains and
thereof creating for us a very strong head-on-current. But we were
really sailing, pushing on so fast that the bow water-spray was caught up
and blown in over the beam. One problem though to this was as we
approached the harbour that when looking at the shore we were going
nowhere forward! All right, up Genoa and seek out the back-waters,
and progress was re-established for onlookers working in the
commercial harbour of Frederikstad.
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In order not to be swept out again, it was definitely
necessary to arrange/make a huge ‘side-sliding’ margin before attempting
crossing the main river into the smaller west-river where our destination
port, Maritime Centre, Isegran(restoring of old wooden vessels) was
located. This margin we got nicely right and it was gained from sailing up
along the old town of Frederikstad before crossing. Good feeling of right
judgement, but now we were properly 'whipped', down-up-down
repeatedly, coming hard on the wind and forced to tack-upon-tack among
low water shoal-grounds, so the old mate/’salt’ quite willingly volunteered
to helm into a ‘heavenly’ port, where all work had ceased to watch us come,
or NOT come at all ! What a Grand Finale to a wonderful W-trip.
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In 2 hours RAMP made the distance of the last 7 nm over the ground,
without counting the extra distance through the water - due the
rearward-pushing-by-the current!
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Total sailing distance for the whole trip over the ground
218.2 nm in 8 days.
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Heavy sailing
toward Fredrikstad
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Still blowing a lot on the river Glomma
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RAMP in harbour
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Arrival at
Isengran
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