Roller-reef(rulle-rebning) 2007  

     This UPDATE may be of interest for the very few, but it has been made due several *back-INFO* mails related an earlier attempt.  B.W.rgds  Ken


The WAYFARER is like a small Viking-ship (with an outboard as extra!).  Oars are considered by me to be very important. Not shorter than 8 feet they are marvellous for rowing, punting, sculling and as an emergency rudder, or emergency ‘leeboard’ in case of a broken CB (really not too big a problem!), as well as for steering in very shallow water and pushing off lee shores. If you are not alone aboard someone else may punt - or you punt yourself, with the rudder/tiller tension-cord-tied in the centre for knee-push-steering.

Getting rid of seaweed clinging to the rudder-blade I / we normally use one of the handy, always readily available (repeat always!) homemade paddles. Also very useful for manoeuvring in marinas.  The oars are stowed port and starboard along the CB-casing on the floorboards, blades forward (under my 'kingpost' or tied together in front of and aft of the CB-casing) using two short lines with quick release knots, and thus being able to free one/two oar(s), pull up/out/aft in a matter of seconds - against attacking "Pirates" !

  Here comes the updated nostalgic part  - Updated ROLLER-REEFING  - that still work wonders(in less than 2 min. at your choice with no bungees or sail tie-downs needed !)  

Next year is the 50th anniversary of the WAYFARER (and this 2007-season it's 41 yrs. for  W1348) and the original W-way of reefing Roller-Reefing which is *my way* (and I am not opposed to slab-reefing),  and please remember: I have kept my boom-end sheeting since 1966, and therefore I'm able to roller-reef.  The size of the mainsail is my decision, not  left to the sailmaker to decide!  I can roll up as much or as little of the sail as the condition calls for.  Roller-reefing gives an increased cockpit space (especially with side benches replaced by *seachests*) and allows my gimballed SILVA-compass (number 3 hereof in use, with  a steering grid and fluorescent points for night-sailing - after aligning the grid) being mounted aft of the main thwart on the slanted part of the CB-casing.

  After hoisting the mainsail fully arrange the main-halliard as follows with ref. to the picture and the text below:  

The main-halliard comes out of the mast(line from A. - the letter 'A' being on top of the port *Seachest*) and goes up and well around the cleat on the mast(line from B.), and has a marked, measured, adjusted long loose part to the made-up, and hanging down, halliard-bundle (it’s made up to be easily loosened/made free by only one hand, if so wanted. Same bundle-knot as used on the lightgrey "painter"-extension hanging to the left of the mast and *kingpost*). 

An orderly and easy roller-reefing to max. the lowest sailbatten can be achieved quickly by leaving the halliard-bundle undone on the floorboards,  when it has been loosened from the mast-

cleat(B.line) as the length - from the bottom of the mast(A. line) to the halliard-bundle(C. line) –  will now allow this,  part way(could be  just to make headroom - an adjustable gooseneck is needed for that!)  or all the way to the very sailbatten. 

For further roller-reefing:  1.) the lowest sailbatten must be removed and 2.) the halliard-bundle must be undone to give more free halliard-line as rolling commence.

  Roller-reefing step by step  
  1. Free/remove the tack-pin of the main-sail, and pull/stretch the mainsail-footrope as far out as possible on the boom(to avoid a drooping boom!) with the outhaul.
  2. This outhaul-line for the mainsail's foot, and in addition the evt. "mini reef" / flat reef one, use separate cleats on the side of the boom by the position of the boom-fitting for the kicking-strap.
  3. One of these lines, for me the outhaul line, is - after the bundle hereof has been free'd - left hanging into the cockpit after tightening and cleating this outhaul line (if it is not long enough - ought to be ! - extend it, so the loose end does not disappear into the sail when rolling !). Then take the boom off the goose-neck  and bring the forward boom-end forward onto the windward side of the mast while rolling the boom. Before this the very first act though(ref. # 4.) must be when solo-sailing: stabilize the position in 'heave to',  furl the foresail !  
  4. The action of 'heaving to', is for me the following:  Heading into the wind to stop all forward movement. When full STOP with all sheets fully eased, sails wildly fluttering, bow ~45 dg. off towards down-wind, tiller full down a'lee, tiller-ext.  also swung out, so with the lee-heeling of the boat it will remain there at least for some 30-40 seconds, while I move  forward to lift the CB, as I pass by, in order to quickly furl the foresail.  This action is made  in one 'sweeping' movement from the decision has been taken.  Now - again talking solo-sailing - I can move back to secure the tiller full a'lee (forced to bring my 'gaining' weight 'down there' !).  However starting last year when solo-sailing (and always while fishing) I make my steering-line available, meaning able to steer from any position in the cockpit, and evt. if wanting to reef (or other necessity e.g. reducing internal hyd. pressure or beer-*diving* down below the floorboards evt. to forestall the disaster of leaking beer-cans !) steer from a seated position to windward into *hove to* as mentioned above, and then cleat the steering-line to hold the tiller full a'lee !  The following suggestion from a very good and experienced W-friend I only trust in winds below 8m/sec. :  "Alternatively keep foresail cleated and tack.  Immediately tack is completed tiller must be pushed all the way to the new leeward side to counteract the push of the now backed foresail. It is best to roll some foresail up first." (Using this method in gale force winds and waves I fear to be thrown into a beam-on breaking sea condition ! ).
  5. As the sail has been rolled, place the boom on the goose-nack, hoist, pre-cleat halliard  and  place the boom now - if a sliding goose-neck - higher than the ordinary position on the mast for the goose-neck(will give more head-room, less chance for the boom to catch the water in heavy gusts) tighten and cleat halliard, then stretch the luff/leading edge of the mainsail with the Cunningham tackle (which at the same time may be attached so as to 'de-twist' the boom - this was vital for old wooden boom goosenecks), then screw-fasten the gooseneck. In case you are a less lucky one with a fixed goose-neck,   you´ll have to judge-cleat the halliard and then lean/'hang' heavily on the boom to press-weigh it down in order to stretch the leading edge of the mainsail, and then get the boom onto the goose-neck. It maybe necessary to un-roll a little, 1/4 - 1/2 turn, and then evt. attach the Cunningham-tackle to do the de-twist.  Should really not be necessary for an alu-boom - I believe(have you noticed what this word becomes by removing the two first and the two last letters?) ! 
  6. After this you attach/tie the down-hanging outhaul-line tightly to the eased off kicking-strap, thus creating a boom-stabilizer - it is not a proper kicker! (I am not talking racing - just efficient and easy handling, and that must be trained in order to get the *right* dancing-steps right ! No hurricane needed for such training !).
  7. The whole operation is done, ref. # 4. above, in the stable hove-to position, standing to windward by the mast, boom eased out at 45°. with a fluttering/flopping mainsail, and it works even in a high wind and a rough sea way - then a maximum of half CB( a good and very experienced W-friend recommends: CB lifted completely !) to create a 'square' (breaker-yielding) drift, thereby creating the 'slick' which reduces on-coming breakers' steepness - depending on the kind of sea-condition though!
  8. If more roller-reefing is necessary the lower sail batten must be removed(unless it has been altered to parallel the boom !), but this can be tricky when solo-sailing, being sea-borne in a sea-way ! Then I choose, for solo-sailing, to drop the mainsail, and use my W-trysail (carried 'at ready') and evt. also in addition to use my W-genoa or W-Jib as may fit the condition.

Using a mainsail or a reefed mainsail alone for windy conditions (sail flattened, all control lines pulled/set hard) in a seaway, I move the traveller out(FINN- and OK-dinghy style!) and before coming about ease off a little to gain speed and then sheet in as you head up into the waves and wind in order to tack. When the bow is passing the "wind-eye", as you move yourself to windward, relax and ease the sheet a little as the boat regains speed, get settled on the windward side-decks, start sailing: playing the tiller - low speed calls for a definite pull to bear off - get `dancing´ with your boat (play the main-sheet, balance and waves - head up into the oncoming wave, bear away as you cross the crest and head up again) sailing close-hauled  gives moderate forward speed = less spray from breaking seawater, but also not too much *ground-gaining*!


Tacking as above gives less risk of "getting stuck in irons", but if you happen to do just that then ease the sheet, push the tiller down to lee, let the wind and waves push your boat back until you again have a sailing angle on the wind(if rough conditions CB about  60% down), rough tiller-handling, hard decisive moves, pulling and jerking may help to get the wind-angle right, gradually moving the boat forward. The tiller and the mainsheet should continously be adjusted/moved in-out, in-out, and the mast must point fairly upright - towards Zenith - meaning your W. must be kept fairly flat on the water - alas no heeling !


Heeling your W. is only used in very weak winds(weight well forward) in order to give a gravity-caused 'curve'/camber in your sails and less friction-area below the waterline.

  Wish you all well and some wonderful W-sailing.  Ken,W1348"Maitken"